Why Goodyear Welted Shoes Matter

Why Zatorres builds this way.

Goodyear welted construction is the standard for men who expect more. It takes longer to build and demands skill, yet it pays you back with durability, structure, and the kind of comfort that only improves with time.

How the construction works:

1. The gemming - An insole board with rib, called the gemming, holds the structure.
2. The welt - is a thin strip of leather that is stitched to both the insole's rib and the upper. This creates a durable connection between the upper and the shoe's sole unit.
3. Cork filling sits underfoot and eventually molds to your footprint.
4. The Shank supports the arch for comfort.
5. The Outsole is stitched to the welt, not the upper, so resoles happen below the welt.

What you gain:

• Longevity that outlasts glued pairs.
• Comfort as the cork conforms to you.
• Shape that stays crisp through years of wear.
• Serviceability that keeps the upper safe at every resole.
• Real value as cost per wear falls with time.

How to spot the real thing:

Look for a neat stitch line around the sole edge, a defined welt lip between upper and outsole, full leather lining, firm heel counters, and a stacked leather heel with a separate top lift.

Zatorres guidance:

• Rotate pairs. Leather needs time to dry.
• Tree after every wear. Cedar keeps shape and draws moisture.
• Brush with horsehair. Quick passes restore the surface.
• Nourish sparingly. Conditioner a few times a year, polish for protection and depth.
• Resole on time. Don’t grind into the welt; replace when the forepart is thin and the heel edges look tired.

Questions about care, fit, or timing a resole?

Ask below, the Society learns together.